The Ethiopian News Agency

EPRDF Enables to Increase Agricultural Production: Executive Committee
Addis Ababa, November 7, 2010 (Addis Ababa) - The Executive Committee of EPRDF said it has enabled to register an agricultural production growth.

In a meeting it held here on Saturday, the Executive Committee had found that the development of infrastructure and prevalence of good governance were the major factors for in the increase in agricultural production.

It said role model farmers should be taken an exemplary to replicate agricultural productivity growth in all parts of the country.

The Executive Committee stressed the need that providing necessary training and support to the farming community would help increase agricultural productivity.

Further expanding irrigation development schemes and development of river basins are among the many things that help increase agricultural production growth.

It also underlined the need to fill in the gap of agricultural products' transaction.

It also discussed the importance of expanding micro finance institutions so that farmers have access to loan and saving.

The Executive Committee also deliberated on the significance of developing the culture of saving among the farming community.

The prevalence of multi-party system which enables to develop democracy in the country has enabled to achieve development across the nation.

This has also helped bring about national consensus among the people in the country, the Executive Committee said.

It urged the public at large to work hard for the realization of renaissance of Ethiopia.

T-10:01-10:21 AM

E-11 minutes

---END---


Headlines
EPRDF Enables to Increase Agricultural Production: Executive Committee
Ethiopia Secures 52 Million US Dollars from Gold Export in First Quarter
(c) The Ethiopian News Agency

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Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society
doi:10.1016/j.agecon.2004.09.006 | How to Cite or Link Using DOI
Copyright © 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. Cited By in Scopus (13)
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Strategies to increase agricultural productivity and reduce land degradation: evidence from Uganda

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This article is not included in your organization's subscription. However, you may be able to access this article under your organization's agreement with Elsevier.

John Pendera, Corresponding Author Contact Information, E-mail The Corresponding Author, Ephraim Nkonyaa, Pamela Jaggera, Dick Sserunkuumab and Henry Ssalic

aInternational Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI), 2033 K St., NW, Washington, DC 20006-1002, USA

bMakerere University, Kampala, Uganda

cNational Agricultural Research Organization, Kampala, Uganda

Available online 17 November 2004.

Abstract

This paper estimates a structural econometric model of household decisions regarding income strategies, participation in programs and organisations, crop choices, land management, and labour use, and their implications for agricultural production and soil erosion; based upon a survey of over 450 households and their farm plots in Uganda. Many factors have context-specific impacts and involve trade-offs between increasing production and reducing land degradation. Government agricultural extension and training programs contribute to higher value of crop production in the lowlands, but to soil erosion in the highlands. By contrast, non-governmental organization (NGO) programs focusing on agriculture and environment help to reduce erosion, but have less favourable impacts on production in the lowlands. Education increases household incomes, but also reduces crop production in the lowlands. Poverty has mixed impacts on agricultural production, depending on the nature of poverty: smaller farms obtain higher crop production per hectare, while households with fewer livestock have lower crop production. Population pressure contributes to agricultural intensification, but also to erosion in the densely populated highlands. Several household income strategies contribute to increased value of crop production, without significant impacts on soil erosion. We find little evidence of impact of access to markets, roads and credit, land tenure or title on agricultural intensification and crop production and land degradation. In general, the results imply that the strategies to increase agricultural production and reduce land degradation must be location-specific, and that there are few ‘win-win’ opportunities to simultaneously increase production and reduce land degradation.

Keywords: Agricultural productivity; Land degradation; Agricultural development strategies; Sustainable land management, Uganda

JEL classification: Q01; Q24; Q12; Q18
Article Outline

1.
Introduction

2.
Methodology
2.1. Empirical model
2.2. Value of crop production
2.3. Crop choice, labour use and land management
2.4. Income strategies and participation in programs and organisations
2.5. Soil erosion
2.6. Dependent variables
2.7. Explanatory variables
2.8. Hypotheses
2.9. Data
2.10. Analysis

3.
Results
3.1. Value of production
3.2. Erosion
3.3. Potential impacts of selected interventions

4.
Conclusions and implications

References

Table 1. Determinants of output value and predicted erosion View table in article

*, **, *** mean reported coefficient is statistically significant at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Coefficients of agro-climatic zones, altitude, plot quality variables (slope, position on slope, soil depth, texture, colour and perceived fertility) and ethnic groups in reduced form not reported due to space limitations. Full regression results available upon request.
b Variables that were jointly statistically insignificant in the OLS and full version of the IV regressions were excluded from the reported restricted IV regressions. Hausman tests failed to reject OLS model for value of crop production (P = 1.000) and erosion (P = 0.432).

Table 2. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomesa View table in article

*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.

Table 3. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomes, lowlands vs. highlands (total effects)a View table in article

*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. R means that the coefficient is of the same sign and statistically significant in the reduced form regression. Since participation in agricultural training, extension and organisations were excluded from the reduced form regressions, the robustness of the total effects for these variables could not be shown.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, participation in programs and organisations, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.

Corresponding Author Contact InformationCorresponding author. Tel.: +1 202 862 5645; fax: +1 703 426 0416.
Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society




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http://www.dummies.com

Making Compost - Black Gold for Your Organic Garden

The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.

Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.

A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.

Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.

Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.

Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.

Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:

1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.

The soil under it should be well drained.

2. Make a bin.

Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.

3. Add brown materials.

Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.

4. Add green materials.

Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.

5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.

A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.

6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.

Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.

7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.

If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.

Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:

* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:

• Hay, straw, pine needles

• Leaves

• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)

• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human

• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs

• Sawdust

• Wood chips

• Weeds

• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)

* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:

• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.

• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass

• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants

• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds

• Dog, cat, or pig feces.

* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).

Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.

Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials

Material and C/N Ratio

Table scraps, 15:1

Grass clippings, 19:1

Old manure, 20:1

Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1

Fruit waste, 25:1

Corn stalks, 60:1

Old leaves, 80:1

Straw, 80:1

Paper, 170:1

Sawdust, 500:1

Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes

To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.

* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.

* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.

* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.

Keeping your pile happy

A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:

1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.

Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.

2. Turn the pile when it cools down.

Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.

3. Let it cook again.

How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.

4. When it's cool, turn it again.

You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.

Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:

* The pile was too wet or dry.

* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.

* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.

* The pile was too small.

You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals

Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials

A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt

When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame

A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops

A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer

Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading

The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier

A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off

The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness

The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus

A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients

Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch

Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter

Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials

Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH

The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis

The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients

Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops

Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching

A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets

Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing

The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting

Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning

The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops

Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.

* Comments(12) | Add Yours
* Print
* Share This
* Gardening Glossary

Related

* Container Gardening: How to Plant Vegetables in Pots
* How to Start Seeds Indoors
* Planting Seeds on Your Allotment
* Planting Seeds in Small Containers
* How to Divide Perennials
* Dividing Perennials in Your Garden
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* Growing Seasons by Hardiness Zone
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Comments (12)

1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.



Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000

Making Compost - Black Gold for Your Organic Garden

The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.

Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.

A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.

Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.

Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.

Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.

Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:

1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.

The soil under it should be well drained.

2. Make a bin.

Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.

3. Add brown materials.

Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.

4. Add green materials.

Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.

5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.

A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.

6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.

Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.

7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.

If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.

Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:

* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:

• Hay, straw, pine needles

• Leaves

• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)

• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human

• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs

• Sawdust

• Wood chips

• Weeds

• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)

* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:

• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.

• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass

• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants

• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds

• Dog, cat, or pig feces.

* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).

Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.

Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials

Material and C/N Ratio

Table scraps, 15:1

Grass clippings, 19:1

Old manure, 20:1

Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1

Fruit waste, 25:1

Corn stalks, 60:1

Old leaves, 80:1

Straw, 80:1

Paper, 170:1

Sawdust, 500:1

Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes

To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.

* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.

* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.

* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.

Keeping your pile happy

A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:

1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.

Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.

2. Turn the pile when it cools down.

Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.

3. Let it cook again.

How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.

4. When it's cool, turn it again.

You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.

Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:

* The pile was too wet or dry.

* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.

* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.

* The pile was too small.

You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals

Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials

A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt

When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame

A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops

A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer

Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading

The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier

A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off

The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness

The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus

A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients

Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch

Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter

Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials

Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH

The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis

The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients

Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops

Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching

A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets

Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing

The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting

Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning

The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops

Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.

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* Gardening Glossary

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Comments (12)

1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.

Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000

Agricultural Engineering

Department of Agricultural Engineering UGM Facilitate Farmers to Develop SRI
Submitted by marwati on Tue, 11/02/2010 - 07:08.
in

* News report


Agricultural system by means of the System of Rice Intensification (SRI) has been known able to increase agricultural production. In addition, through such methods, environmental sustainability can be well maintained, especially with economical use of water. Seeing the opportunity of the development of SRI farming method, the Department of Agricultural Engineering, Faculty of Agricultural Technology UGM, facilitates farmers in Yogyakarta to develop it.
Lecturer, Prof. Dr. Ir. Sigit Supadmo, M. Eng., said there were more than 300 farmers in Yogyakarta already assisted to develop this system. They also focus on researches on the excellence of the system. "The research also involves the faculty and students," Sigit said at the sidelines of the announcement of SRI’s contest winners and SRI’s collective harvest event at the Jering VI sub-village site, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman, Thursday (28/10). This activity is a joint work among UGM- SRI Farmers Forum-Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region.

Sigit explained that the SRI system has many advantages compared with the usual system. The advantages, among others are; the economical use of water, economical use of seed, and more production.

He described the utilization of rice seeds at a relatively young age of about 10 days, thus saving the amount of the seeds. "There are about 42 types of rice varieties being developed for this SRI system. So far the results are pretty good, "said Sigit. Some of the names of rice varieties grown in that location are Maros, Batas Gadis, Pandanwangi, Code, Sarinah, Somali, etc.

Similarly, a farmer from Karangmojo, Sunaryo, said that the SRI system has many advantages. He gave an overview of the economical use of the rice seeds. With SRI, the seeds used are only about 0.5 kg or 1 kg while with non-SRI system, the seeds could reach up to 10 kg.

Meanwhile, the production also increased dramatically with the SRI system. By utilizing only 7.5 kg of seeds, they can harvest up to 1 ton of dry-milled rice. Conversely, with non-SRI system, an amount of 15 kg of seeds will result around 7-8 quintal only. "The benefits of this system is obvious, many farmers in my region in Gunung Kidul have developed it by now since our income automatically increases," said Sunaryo who is also the contest winner of the Gunung Kidul regency.

Previously, Chief Executive of SRI Farmers Forum of Yogyakarta, Nuryanto, said the contest is held annually. The contest in 2010 was followed by 220 participants, consisting of 63 farmers from Bantul, 30 farmers from Gunung Kidul, 74 farmers from Kulon Progo, 35 farmers from West Sleman, and 18 farmers from the East Sleman.

The winners are decided in each district. The grand winner at the provincial level is also determined, this time it is Sugeng from Temon, Kulon Progo regency. "The production could even reach 12.88 tons of rice," said Nuryanto.

Head of Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region, Ministry of Public Works, Ir. Bambang Harono, Dipl.HE, said the SRI farming system in addition to having the advantages and economical in terms of the use of seeds and water, it is able to reduce social conflict among the farmers in terms of water distribution.

SRI system quite helps the government program in terms of food security. It is also very suitable with the weather and climate in Indonesia. The method that is originated from Madagascar and found about 20 years ago in its development has come under the international spotlight. This is proved by the presence of foreign tourists group from the United States, Nepal, Italy, South Africa, Holland, China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, and several other countries to the village of Jering VI, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman. They are about to witness the organic farming land using the SRI methods. "Along with the Youth Pledge Day on October 28, the young generation shall be able to continue to develop SRI method because it is quite nature-friendly and helps the government in food security programs," said Bambang.
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copyright Universitas Gadjah Mada 2009

kapas transgenik

Kegundahan hati Gubernur Sulawesi Selatan HZB Palaguna memuncak tatkala mendengar berita bahwa petani di Kabupaten Bulukumba membakar kapas hasil panennya pada 13 September 2001. Pembakaran itu merupakan puncak dari rasa kesal karena hasil panen tidak sebaik yang dijanjikan Monsanto.
Bisnis besar penanaman kapas transgenik kerjasama dengan Monsanto terancam gagal jika tidak didukung petani. Bibit kapas sebanyak 40 ton dengan kemampuan areal tanam 8.000 hektar yang telah didatangkan dari Afrika Selatan sebagian terancam gagal ditanam. Padahal berdasarkan SK Menteri Pertanian tertanggal 7 Februari 2001 (SK 107/Kpts/KB.430/2/2001) kapas yang ditanam baru seluas 4.000 ha.

Penolakan penanaman kapas transgenik jenis Bollgard NuCOTN 35B ini juga telah dilakukan oleh Menteri Lingkungan Hidup waktu itu. Sikap yang sama dilakukan oleh 72 LSM diantaranya Konphalindo, YLK Sulsel, YPR, PAN Indonesia yang menandatangani pernyataan menolak tanaman transgenik di Indonesia. Mereka menilai bahwa penanaman kapas transgenik tersebut akan membahayakan keseimbangan lingkungan. Dari hasil penelitian yang dilakukan mahasiswa IPB, Marhamah Nadir dan Reza Indriadi, menyimpulkan bahwa gen kapas Bollgard ini telah mengkontaminasi kapas Kanesia 7 (non-transgenik) yang ditanam berdekatan.

Latar Belakang

Transgenik dan Problemnya

Pernahkah Anda bayangkan bahwa tomat bisa memiliki gen ikan flonder yang hanya hidup di kutub bumi, sehingga buah tersebut menjadi tahan dingin? Tidakkah juga sangat aneh bila tanaman kapas gen-nya bisa disusupi pestisida sehingga bisa membunuh serangga yang memakan daun atau bunganya? Tapi hal itu sudah terjadi kini. Bahkan sudah banyak produk lain yang direkayasa genetikanya oleh manusia untuk memenuhi kebutuhannya yang semakin besar.

Karena kebutuhan manusia akan pangan dan berbagai kebutuhan dasar lainnya semakin meningkat, maka diperkosalah alam untuk berproduksi melebihi kemampuan alamiahnya. Hal ini yang kemudian mendorong dikembangkannya berbagai teknologi, termasuk teknologi rekayasa genetika. Dengan rekayasa genetika manusia bisa menggabungkan sifat sebuah makhluk hidup dengan makhluk hidup lain yang sangat berbeda spesies, sifat dan tabiat hidupnya.

Karena alam dipaksa untuk berproduksi melebihi kapasitasnya maka terjadilah ketidakseimbangan dalam diri dan lingkungannya. Mahluk hidup yang telah direkayasa genetikanya sangat berpotensi merusak mahluk hidup lain yang hidup di sekeliling dan berinteraksi dengannya. Bahkan karena tabiat dan pola hidup makhluk tersebut telah diubah maka alam yang menjadi tempat hidupnya juga berpotensi mengalami kerusakan.

Serangkaian kekhawatiran terhadap terjadinya dampak rekayasa genetika sangatlah beralasan. Meskipun setiap dikeluarkannya produk transgenik sudah dilakukan serangkaian uji laboratorium, tapi belum sepenuhnya teruji keamanannya di alam. Tidak ada standar yang baku untuk mengukur seberapa lama produk transgenik bisa dikatakan aman dan boleh dikonsumsi. Jika produk tersebut merupakan kebutuhan yang dimakan manusia, maka bisa jadi proses uji dan pengamatan di alamnya harus seumur manusia yang mengonsumsinya. Sedangkan umur teknologi rekayasa genetika kini belum genap 25 tahun dan selalu muncul berbagai persoalan dan ekses dari produk transgenik tersebut.

Teknologi rekayasa genetika juga akan menyebabkan ketergantungan petani pada bibit yang disediakan perusahaan. Berbeda dengan pertanian biasa, padi misalnya, buah padi (gabah) yang dihasilkan akan dapat dipakai sebagai bibit dan kemudian disemai kembali oleh petani yang akan menghasilkan tanaman baru. Pada tanaman transgenik, buah yang dihasilkan tidak dapat digunakan sebagai bibit karena telah diganti sifat-sifatnya, termasuk kemampuan reproduksinya.

Sulsel sebagai Sentra Kapas

Kapas tidak bisa tumbuh di sembarang tanah di Indonesia. Begitu juga dengan musim, kapas hanya akan baik ditanam jika pada saat tanaman berbuah adalah musim kemarau. Sentra kapas di Indonesia terdapat di Nusa Tenggara Timur, Nusa Tenggara Barat dan Sulawesi Selatan (Sulsel). Sulsel termasuk penghasil kapas terbesar di Indonesia. Pertanian kapas terdapat hampir di seluruh kabupaten di propinsi Sulsel dan melibatkan ribuan petani.

Lingkungan alam Sulsel sangat mendukung untuk penanaman kapas. Tanah yang cenderung kering dan curah hujan yang juga relatif sedikit menjadikan kapas dapat tumbuh dengan baik. Kapas hanya membutuhkan air pada saat awal penanaman dan setelah mulai berbuah bahkan nyaris tidak membutuhkan air karena sudah tercukupi oleh air dari tanah.

Dengan kondisi alam yang demikian inilah agaknya yang menjadikan Monsanto memilih Sulsel sebagai daerah pertama untuk penanaman kapas transgenik. Dengan merangkul pemerintah daerah dan mengerahkan berbagai strategi meyakinkan masyarakat, Monsanto telah berhasil masuk ke Sulsel dengan proyek awal berupa Uji Multilokasi penanaman kapas Bt-nya.

Kolaborasi Modal dan Kekuasaan

Monsanto: Menelikung dengan Modal

Monsanto merupakan perusahaan penguasa teknologi tanaman transgenik terbesar di dunia. Dalam statementnya, mereka merupakan penyedia utama produk-produk pertanian dan pemberi solusi. Perusahaan yang berkantor pusat di Missouri, AS ini menggunakan inovasi yang tak tertandingi dalam bioteknologi, rekayasa genetika dan pemeliharaan tanaman untuk meningkatkan produktivitas dan mengurangi biaya dalam pertanian. Mereka memproduksi benih yang unggul, termasuk yang diberi merek DEJALB dan Asgrow. Cita-citanya adalah dapat membangun sifat bioteknologi yang terintegrasi yang dapat mengontrol serangga dan mengontrol gulma dalam diri benih tesebut. Mereka juga memakai Roundup, herbisida terlaris di dunia, dan herbisida lainnya yang dapat dikombinasikan dengan benih-benih yang mereka produksi.

Mereka mengelola bisnis dalam dua segmen: Benih dan Rekayasa Genetika (Seed and Genomics), dan Produktivitas Pertanian (Agricultural Productivity). Segmen Seeds and Genomics bergerak pada bisnis global benih dan yang terkait dengan pemeliharaan, bioteknologi, dan rancang bangun teknologi yang berbasis pada rekayasa genetika tanaman, serta ilmu pengetahuan yang mempelajari dan menggunakan gen-gen dalam kehidupan tumbuhan. Sedangkan Segmen Agricultural Productivity melingkupi produksi Roundup dan herbisida lainnya untuk halaman rumput dan taman, dan bisnis ternak.1

Produk Monsanto mencakup 91% dari seluruh wilayah yang ditanami tanaman organik di seluruh dunia pada tahun 2001. Dua perusahaan besar lainnya adalah Syngenta dan Aventis CropScience. Ada juga perusahaan yang bermain di benih transgenik seperti DuPont dan pemilik hak paten untuk teknologi transgenik lain seperti Dow dan Grupo Pulsar. Monsanto termasuk pemegang hak paten bioteknologi terbesar dengan menguasai 287 hak paten, disusul DuPont: 279, Syngenta: 173, Dow: 157, Aventis: 77, dan Grupo Pulsar: 382 .

Berbekal pengalaman melakukan ekspansi penanaman tanaman transgenik di seantero dunia dan modal yang sangat besar Monsanto mulai masuk ke Indonesia. Kapas sebagai komoditi non pangan dipilih sebagai jalan masuk ke Indonesia, karena resikonya lebih rendah. Diduga jika proyek kapas transgenik ini berhasil, akan dilanjutkan dengan penanaman varietas berikutnya. Hal ini pernah diungkapkan oleh Gubernur Palaguna pada bulan April 2002, bahwa dirinya minta agar tanaman jagung transgenik yang ditawarkan PT Monsanto diujicoba di Sulsel selama tiga bulan.3

Monsanto melalui berbagai jalan terjal untuk masuk ke Indonesia. Pendekatan pertama kali dilakukan melalui pemerintah pusat pada saat Rizal Ramli menjadi Menteri Koordinator Perekonomian. Pada waktu itu Monsanto dan Pemerintah sudah merancang sebuah kerjasama untuk membuka lahan penanaman kapas transgenik seluas 10.000 ha. Untuk menghindari pelimpahan kesalahan pada dirinya maka Rizal berkoordinasi dengan Menteri Lingkungan Hidup, Sony Keraf dan dia menolaknya. “Sony Keraf telepon ke saya, waktu itu hubungan kita baik dan concern-nya sama. Kemudian Pak Sony dan kawan-kawan minta dukungan dari civil society” ujar Tejo. Tejo Wahyu Jatmiko adalah Direktur Konphalindo, LSM yang menjadi motor penolakan tanaman transgenik di Indonesia.

Dengan adanya kasus ini Konphalindo bersama beberapa LSM di Jakarta melakukan konsolidasi untuk melakukan penolakan terhadap segala upaya penanaman tanaman transgenik di Indonesia. Dengan berbagai upayanya, akhirnya terkumpul sekitar 72 lembaga yang menjadi pihak yang menjadi garda depan gerakan anti biota transgenik. Bisa dikatakan bahwa kelompok inilah yang menjadi batu ganjalan besar bagi Monsanto untuk menancapkan bisnisnya di Indonesia.

Upaya pertama Monsanto pun gagal total setelah Sony Keraf didukung oleh pernyataan dari sekitar 72 lembaga dan jaringan NGO menyatakan menolak proyek tersebut. Akan tetapi bukan Monsanto namanya jika menyerah begitu saja dengan kekalahan pertama. Dia kemudian melakukan pendekatan kepada pemerintah daerah. Mereka paham benar bahwa dengan adanya euforia otonomi daerah, pemda biasanya tidak segan melakukan upaya-upaya untuk kepentingan daerah meskipun tidak sejalan dengan kebijakan pemerintah pusat.


Kasus ini ditulis oleh As’ad Nugroho dari Pusat Penelitian Kepentingan Umum dan Advokasi–PIRAC, di bawah bimbingan Ahmad D.Habir,Ph.D, Dekan Fakultas Manajemen-Swiss German University, sebagai bagian dari program Promoting Leadership for Integrated Development yang didukung oleh Ford Foundation Indonesia. Semua materi yang terkandung di dalam artikel ini dipersiapkan semata-mata hanya untuk tujuan pembelajaran. Kasus ini tidak dimaksudkan atau dirancang sebagai gambaran yang menunjukkan sebuah praktek yang benar atau salah.

Hak Cipta © 2007 dimiliki oleh Yayasan Pembangunan Berkelanjutan
Studi Kasus yang dipaparkan ini hanya berisi sebagian dari isi keseluruhan studi kasus dengan judul tersebut diatas.

Peningkatan Produksi Pangan

Besar Kecil Normal
Peningkatan Produksi Pangan Ditentukan Lembaga Penelitian

Sabtu, 26 April 2008 | 14:14 WIB

TEMPO Interaktif, Jakarta:Wakil Presiden Jusuf Kalla menegaskan peningkatan produksi pangan harus didukung oleh penguatan lembaga penelitian. Departemen Pertanian juga diminta meningkatkan kapasitas dan kemampuan lembaga penelitian pertanian.

"Peningkatan produksi harus kuat dulu lembaga penelitian, saya tidak ingin lembaga penelitian pangan jadi museum," kata Kalla saat meninjau percontohan penanaman jagung hibrida jenis Lamuru dan Sukmaraga di Balai Penelitian Tanaman Serealia Maros, Sulawesi Selatan, Sabtu (26/4).

Lembaga penelitian, kata Kalla, jangan selalu bangga pada masa lalu. Lembaga ini harus berperan ke depan mengembangkan produksi di tengah peluang kebutuhan internasional yang terus meningkat dan harga yang tinggi.

"Lembaga penelitian harus tingkatkan kualitasnya. Kita tidak akan kelaparan jika lembaga ini berkembang," kata Kalla. Pemerintah daerah dan universitas juga diminta mendukung upaya ini.

Kalla menyempatkan diri meninjau cara mengawinkan dua bibit unggul jagung, yaitu Lamuru dan Sukmaraga. Dia pun memutari areal lembaga peneliian dan melihat petak penanaman padi hibrida. "Ini juga, areal persawahan di luar Jawa ini tak seperti di Jawa, di sini tidak tertata," kata Kalla.

Sampai hal kecil pun Kalla memperhatikan, seperti beberapa ruang penelitian yang kotor. "Bagaimana mau meneliti, lihat debunya," kata Kalla sambil menunjukkan jarinya yang ditempeli debu setelah memegang salah satu meja di ruangan yang kotor.

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Manfaat Pertanian Organik

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Manfaat Pertanian Organik

Pertanian organik adalah sistem produksi pertanian yang holistik dan terpadu, yang mengoptimalkan kesehatan dan produktivitas agro-ekosistem secara alami, sehingga mampu menghasilkan pangan dan serat yang cukup, berkualitas, dan berkelanjutan.

Dalam prakteknya, pertanian organik dilakukan dengan cara, antara lain:

1. Menghindari penggunaan benih/bibit hasil rekayasa genetika (GMO = genetically modified organisms).
2. Menghindari penggunaan pestisida kimia sintetis. Pengendalian gulma, hama dan penyakit dilakukan dengan cara mekanis, biologis, dan rotasi tanaman.
3. Menghindari penggunaan zat pengatur tumbuh (growth regulator) dan pupuk kimia sintetis. Kesuburan dan produktivitas tanah ditingkatkan dan dipelihara dengan menambahkan residu tanaman, pupuk kandang, dan batuan mineral alami, serta penanaman legum dan rotasi tanaman.
4. Menghindari penggunaan hormon tumbuh dan bahan aditif sintetis dalam makanan ternak.


Manfaat Pertanian Organik

Sejumlah keuntungan yang dapat dipetik dari pengembangan pertanian organik adalah, antara lain:

1. Kesehatan

* Menghasilkan makanan yang cukup, aman dan bergizi sehingga meningkatkan kesehatan masyarakat. Data menunjukkan bahwa praktek pertanian organik mampu meningkatkan hasil sayuran hingga 75% dibanding pertanian konvensional. Disamping itu, produk pertanian organik juga mempunyai kandungan vitamin C, kalium, dan beta karoten yang lebih tinggi.
* Menciptakan lingkungan kerja yang aman dan sehat bagi petani, karena petani akan terhindar dari paparan (exposure) polusi yang diakibatkan oleh digunakannya bahan kimia sintetik dalam produksi pertanian.
* Meminimalkan semua bentuk polusi yang dihasilkan dari kegiatan pertanian. Karena pertanian organik: (1) Menghindari penggunaan bahan kimia sintetis dan (2) Memanfaatkan limbah kegiatan pertanian seperti kotoran ternak dan jerami sebagai pupuk kompos.


2. Lingkungan

a. Kualitas Tanah

Menjaga sifat fisik, kimia dan biologi tanah yang baik merupakan hal yang penting dalam pertanian organik. Untuk itu dalam pertanian organik diutamakan cara pengelolaan tanah yang meminimalkan erosi, meningkatkan kandungan bahan organik tanah serta mendorong kuantitas dan diversitas biologi tanah.

Dalam pertanian organik peningkatan kesuburan tanah dilakukan tanpa menggunakan pupuk kimia sintetis. Sebagai gantinya digunakan teknik - teknik sebagai berikut :

* Rotasi tanaman secara tepat, mixed cropping dan integrasi tanaman dengan ternak.
* Meningkatkan populasi mikroorganisme tanah melalui penggunaan pupuk organik.
* Meminimalkan pengolahan tanah yang mengganggu aktivitas biota tanah.
* Menjaga tanah selalu tertutup dengan mulsa organik.
* Menghindari pengolahan tanah yang berlebihan pada tanah yang miring untuk mencegah erosi.
* Menggunakan tanaman dalam strip dan tumpang sari.
* Menghindari penggembalaan yang berlebihan.
* Tidak menggunakan bahan kimia sintetis yang meracuni mikroorganisme tanah dan merusak struktur tanah.


b. Penghematan energi

Hasil studi menunjukkan bahwa sistem produksi organik hanya menggunakan 50–80% energi minyak untuk
menghasilkan setiap unit pangan dibandingkan dengan sistem produksi pertanian konvensional. Namun demikian, ini tidak berlaku untuk semua sistem produksi sayuran dan buah-buahan.

c. Kualitas Air

Penjagaan kualitas air merupakan upaya yang sangat penting dalam sistem pertanian lestari (sustainable agriculture system). Kenyataan menunjukkan bahwa polusi air tanah (groundwater) dan air muka tanah (surface water) oleh nitrat dan fosfat menjadi hal yang umum terjadi di kawasan pertanian. Residu pupuk dan pestisida sintetis serta bakteri penyebab penyakit seperti Escherichia Coli juga seringkali terdeteksi di sistem perairan.

Pada areal pertanian organik, sumber air dijaga dengan menghindari praktek-praktek pertanian yang menyebabkan erosi tanah dan pencucian nutrisi, pencemaran air akibat penggunaan bahan kimia. Kotoran hewan yang akan digunakan untuk pupuk organik selalu dikelola dengan hati-hati dan dikomposkan sebelum digunakan. Di samping itu, penggunaan pupuk kimia dan pestisida sintetis juga dilarang dalam sistem pertanian organik.

d. Kualitas Udara

Pertanian organik terbukti mampu meminimalkan perubahan iklim global karena emisi gas rumah kaca (greenhouse gas emission) pada pertanian organik lebih rendah dibandingkan pertanian konvensional. Dalam pertanian organik tidak menggunakan pupuk nitrogen sintetis sehingga tidak ada emisi nitrogen oksida dari pupuk buatan tersebut.

Penggunaan minyak bumi juga lebih rendah sehingga menurunkan emisi gas karbon dioksida. Lebih penting lagi, pertanian organik menyediakan penampungan (sink) untuk karbon dioksida melalui peningkatan kandungan bahan organik di tanah serta penutupan permukaan tanah dengan tanaman penutup tanah.

e. Pengelolaan Limbah

Praktek pertanian organik mengurangi jumlah limbah melalui daur ulang limbah menjadi pupuk organik. Kotoran ternak, jerami dan limbah pertanian lainnya yang selama ini dianggap limbah, justru menjadi bahan yang mempunyai nilai sebagai sumber nutrisi dan bahan organik bagi pertanian organik.

f. Keanekaragaman Hayati

Pertanian organik tidak hanya menghindari penggunaan pestisida sintetis, namun juga mampu menciptakan keanekaragaman hayati. Praktek seperti rotasi pertanaman, tumpang sari serta pengolahan tanah konservasi merupakan hal-hal yang mampu meningkatkan keanekaragaman hayati dengan menyediakan habitat yang sehat bagi banyak spesies mulai dari jamur mikroskopis hingga binatang besar.

Pertanian organik tidak menggunakan organisme hasil rekayasa genetika (Genetic Enggineering Organism) atau organisme transgenik (Genetically Modified Organism) serta produknya karena alasan keamanan lingkungan, kesehatan dan sosial. Produk-produk seperti ini tidak dibutuhkan karena mungkin menyebabkan resiko yang tidak dapat diterima pada integritas spesies.

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