Natural selections: The case for organic over synthetic fertilizers
When it comes to using fertilizer, I have generally used synthetic chemical-based products over the years.
By The Vancouver Sun August 12, 2008 Be the first to post a comment
When it comes to using fertilizer, I have generally used synthetic chemical-based products over the years.
My habit has been to sprinkle slow-release 14-14-14 around shrubs in spring and to use 20-20-20 liquid feed to nourish plants in containers and hanging baskets in summer.
Then I got talking to Simon Hart, of Grotek, an Aldergrove-based company that supplies organic fertilizers -- mostly to farmers but also to home gardeners -- in 17 countries.
Hart set me straight on all sorts of fertilizing misinformation.
For instance, I always thought that a high NPK number (ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) was an indication of effectiveness and value for money.
I assumed 20-20-20 was giving me a bigger bang for my buck than, say, 2-1-3 organic fertilizer. Not so, says Hart.
"An organic ingredient will never have a very high number, so don't be deceived by low numbers," he says.
"In most synthetic fertilizers, impurities are not included in the N-P-K ratio, but they are hidden in the product nevertheless. And some nutrients 'lock out' (become unavailable to a plant) because of chemicals already present in the soil.
"In fact, I would put our 2-1-3 all-purpose fermented liquid against any number any day."
Hart also agrees with the reason California has banned the use of liquid lawn fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.
"Lawn fertilizers can wash into storm drains, ditches and dikes and out into streams, rivers and into the ocean.
"You are basically providing a nutrient-rich formula for algae as well as increasing the amount of mercury, lead and arsenic running into the system"
Some fertilizer sales people, he says, pooh-pooh the idea of using fish fertilizer because it contains trace elements of heavy metals like mercury.
"It is a ridiculous argument," says Hart, "because the reason some fish fertilizer is not as pure as it should be is partly because of all the synthetic fertilizers we are using elsewhere that are washing into the ocean."
The use of high-nitrogen chemical fertilizer by commercial farmers in other countries has resulted in dead streams in which algae blooms have taken away oxygen for fish and destroyed the natural ecological balance.
"Over-fertilizing with synthetic chemicals disinfects or kills most of the beneficial fungi and organisms in soil. What you need to do is build up the beneficial organisms, not destroy them," he says.
Hart wants more gardeners to discover the effectiveness of organic "fermented fertilizers."
Imagine running water through a well-rotted compost heap, he says. The brew that you end up with would be organic liquid fertilizer.
At Grotek, they take this concept further and have huge brewing tanks for making concentrated fermented organic fertilizers.
"I like these because they are safer to use around the garden, especially if you have pets and children," he says.
Grotek also does an organic powder fertilizer. Hart recommends using a powdered organic in the spring and late fall ("it is your best choice for economy") and then a fermented organic to encourage flower production in late spring through summer.
Grotek has two products in its Life series that Hart recommends: Total Nourish Liquid Plant Food (2-1-3) for vegetables, flowers, shrubs and trees. And Total Nourish Powder Plant Food (3-1-2) for all types of plants.
"It is virtually impossible to overfertilize with an organic product. Synthetic fertilizers can burn plants and poison soil. Organics make soil healthier, enrich it with natural organisms, and make nutrients available to plants as they need them."
Over the three years he has been using organics in his own garden, Hart says he has seen amazing growth and improved healthiness in his plants.
"If you are using synthetic fertilizer you are fighting nature rather than using the little guys nature has invented over thousands of years to help you."
Hart is also a big believer in coconut fibre, a natural material that he says not only helps to retain moisture but also has the ability to retain air.
"It holds 10 times more water than peat and 10 times more air," says Hart.
"A combination of coconut fibre and organic fertilizer mixed into soil around roses will give you 25 to 30 per cent more blooms," Hart says.
Coconut fibre is most beneficial mixed into soil in containers, window boxes and hanging baskets, he says.
"Organic fertilizers cost more, sometimes double, less if you use powders. But you have to consider the long-term benefits."
swhysall@png.canwest.com
- - -
YOUR GUIDE TO ORGANICS
Organic fertilizers are derived from three main sources: minerals (glacial rock dust, rock sulphate), animal byproducts (blood and bone meal, worm castings, bat and seabird guano), and vegetative matter (alfalfa, flax, kelp, cotton meal).
In Canada, "organic-based" means any product that has at least 15 per cent organic content. In the U.S., the standards are more stringent, requiring at least 50 per cent.
A lot of products come with an OMRI label. This mean the ingredients have been approved by the non-profit Organic Materials Review Institute.
Here's a look at organic ingredients:
- Green sand: A salt-water seashore deposit, it contains seven per cent potassium, 20 per cent iron oxide and as many as 30 other elements. Use: Green sand loosens hard soils, binds sandy soils, regulates moisture and helps release other elements.
- Kelp meal: Seaweed that is sun dried, cleaned, de-salted and ground into granular form. Use: A natural, enriching soil supplement.
- Alfalfa meal: With a fertilizer value of 3-2-2, it also contains other trace elements and is considered an alternative source of nitrogen to blood meal. Use: Good for adding to compost to increase its nutritional value or can be made into a tea and used as a foliar feed.
- Worm castings: A natural manure produced by earthworms, it is high in beneficial bacteria and organic matter. Use: A topdressing for lawns as well as shrubs, flower and vegetable beds or for adding to soil of potted houseplants.
- Steamed bone meal: Derived from animal bones, this is a natural form of calcium (23 per cent) and phosphorus (13 per cent). Use: It can be added into a hole at time of planting to promote root growth.
- Glacial rock dust: A mineral formed by glacial action thousands of years ago containing a broad spectrum of trace minerals.Use: It improves soil structure, replaces missing elements, encourages bacterial activity and makes nutrients more available to plants.
- Bat dung: There are two types: guano (droppings) from fruit eating bats (high in phosphorous) and guano from insect eating bats (high nitrogen.) Use: High in phosphorus, bat guano promotes fruit and flower production and adds calcium and magnesium to the soil. Made into a manure tea, it can be used as a foliar feed.
- Blood meal: Made from the blood of animals, which is steamed to sterilize it and then dried to a powder. It is high in protein and nitrogen. Use: Experts argue that the most natural place for animal blood to go is into the soil. Blood meal has a very beneficial effect on plant growth.
© (c) CanWest MediaWorks Publications Inc.
© 2010-2011 Postmedia Network Inc. All rights reserved.
Unauthorized distribution, transmission or republication strictly prohibited.
Minggu, 03 April 2011
Selasa, 18 Januari 2011
Agro Products
'Agro Products' embraces a broad all-inclusive category of products related to AGRICULTURE. It includes a comprehensive range of raw and finished goods under the classifications of plants, animals and other life forms. The term 'agro' has stemmed from the Greek word 'agros' meaning field, which has led to its current usage meaning anything that falls under the 'agricultural' category.
Agro products are the life force, the very source of survival for the human kind. It is not only that man breathes with the support of food but a major chunk of the world population is also dependent on agriculture as their source of survival. An approximate 36% of the world's workers are engaged in agriculture with India's 65% of the population being directly and indirectly employed in this sector. Browse through the A-Z of Agro Products at this site and stay updated of the gro industry.
Categories :
Agricultural Machinery and Equipments
Agricultural machinery and equipment have revolutionized the agricultural industry worldwide. They help in increasing and improving the productivity content to a great extent. Below is the list of agricultural machinery and equipment. You can learn more about these machinery and can also contact their manufacturers,exporters and suppliers by clicking on the links.
Tractor Tractor Spares Leveling Blade Harrow
Cultivators Sowing and Planting Machinery Grain Drilling Machinery Ploughs
Tillers Planters Harvesting Machinery Crop Processing Machinery
Oilseed Processing Machinery Hand Tools Sprayers Crop Drying Machinery
@ Copyright 2008 Agro Products
Agro products are the life force, the very source of survival for the human kind. It is not only that man breathes with the support of food but a major chunk of the world population is also dependent on agriculture as their source of survival. An approximate 36% of the world's workers are engaged in agriculture with India's 65% of the population being directly and indirectly employed in this sector. Browse through the A-Z of Agro Products at this site and stay updated of the gro industry.
Categories :
Agricultural Machinery and Equipments
Agricultural machinery and equipment have revolutionized the agricultural industry worldwide. They help in increasing and improving the productivity content to a great extent. Below is the list of agricultural machinery and equipment. You can learn more about these machinery and can also contact their manufacturers,exporters and suppliers by clicking on the links.
Tractor Tractor Spares Leveling Blade Harrow
Cultivators Sowing and Planting Machinery Grain Drilling Machinery Ploughs
Tillers Planters Harvesting Machinery Crop Processing Machinery
Oilseed Processing Machinery Hand Tools Sprayers Crop Drying Machinery
@ Copyright 2008 Agro Products
Minggu, 09 Januari 2011
Farming in Britain
Where can I find information on Farming in Britain?
Woodlands Junior School is in the south-east corner of England
What is farming?
It is the growing of crops and the rearing of animals.
Farming in Britain
Farming
Farming contributed £5.6 billion to the UK economy in 2006. The total area of agricultural land in 2006 was 18.7 million hectares, about 77 per cent of the total land area in the United Kingdom (excluding inland water).
Farming in Britain has changed a great deal in the last 30 years. Farming used to employ a great many people in Britain but nowadays, with machinery, a few people can run a huge farm of thousands of hectares.
Agriculture provides around 60 per cent of Britain's food needs even though it employs just 1.4 per cent of the country's labour force. Britain's agriculture is under pressure to change at the moment. Farmers are under pressure to adopt more environmentally friendly methods such as organic farming. Organic farming does not use artificial chemicals that can damage the environment and human health. Its popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.
Agriculture Products
cereals, oilseed, potatoes, vegetables; cattle, sheep, poultry; fish
There are many types of farming in Britain.
Different types of farming occur in different regions of Britain. This is due to the influence of relief, climate (especially precipitation and temperature), soil type and to an extent closeness to the market. Upland areas generally lend themselves to sheep farming. Flat areas to crop production and wet/warm areas to milk and beef production.
Some parts of Britain have excellent soil for crops, while others are used for cattle, sheep, pigs and poultry.
In the north-west of England, Wales and Scotland, farmers keep cattle and sheep. Sheep can survive the cold winters on the hills and moors.
Sheep on the Yorkshire moors
In the south-west of England, the rich grass is ideal for feeding dairy cows.
Cows
In the south-east of England and the lowlands of Scotland, grain, potatoes and sugar beet are grown.
Sugar beet crop
In the east of England (East Anglia), wheat, barley and vegetables grow in enormous fields.
wheat crop
Types of Farming:
* arable (growing of crops and cereals)
The UK is the fourth largest producer of cereal and oilseed crops in the EU (after France, Germany and Poland) accounting for about 8% of total EU production.
* pastoral (rearing and production of animals including pigs, chickens, hill farming sheep, beef and dairy cattle)
* mixed farming (combination of arable and pastoral)
* horticulture (production of flowers, fruit, vegetables or ornamental plants)
* market gardening (production of fruit and vegetables)
* viticulture (grapes).
Principal crops:
* wheat, (the most widely grown arable crop in the UK)
* barley,
* oats,
* potatoes,
* sugar beet, (The UK is the fifth largest producer of sugar beet)
* vegetables,
* oil seed rape,
* fruits.
Livestock products:
* poultry,
* sheep,
* cattle,
* milk,
* meat,
* eggs,
* wool.
back to the topLearn about England and the other countries in Britain
from the children who live in ther
Follow this link to report typos, bad links or general mistakes
Events and special days in the UK
British Life
Pooh down the River Thames
Flat Stanley
British History
Click here to see us on Twitter
About Us | Search | Site Map | Feedback | User Information | Contact Us
© Copyright - please read
All the materials on these pages are free for educational use only. You may not redistribute, sell or place the content of this page on any other website or blog without written permission from Mandy Barrow, Woodlands Junior School. If you have any questions about the use of these materials please email us.
© Copyright 2010 Mandy Barrow - Terms & Conditions
Woodlands Junior School, Hunt Road Tonbridge Kent TN10 4BB UK
Woodlands Junior School is in the south-east corner of England
What is farming?
It is the growing of crops and the rearing of animals.
Farming in Britain
Farming
Farming contributed £5.6 billion to the UK economy in 2006. The total area of agricultural land in 2006 was 18.7 million hectares, about 77 per cent of the total land area in the United Kingdom (excluding inland water).
Farming in Britain has changed a great deal in the last 30 years. Farming used to employ a great many people in Britain but nowadays, with machinery, a few people can run a huge farm of thousands of hectares.
Agriculture provides around 60 per cent of Britain's food needs even though it employs just 1.4 per cent of the country's labour force. Britain's agriculture is under pressure to change at the moment. Farmers are under pressure to adopt more environmentally friendly methods such as organic farming. Organic farming does not use artificial chemicals that can damage the environment and human health. Its popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.
Agriculture Products
cereals, oilseed, potatoes, vegetables; cattle, sheep, poultry; fish
There are many types of farming in Britain.
Different types of farming occur in different regions of Britain. This is due to the influence of relief, climate (especially precipitation and temperature), soil type and to an extent closeness to the market. Upland areas generally lend themselves to sheep farming. Flat areas to crop production and wet/warm areas to milk and beef production.
Some parts of Britain have excellent soil for crops, while others are used for cattle, sheep, pigs and poultry.
In the north-west of England, Wales and Scotland, farmers keep cattle and sheep. Sheep can survive the cold winters on the hills and moors.
Sheep on the Yorkshire moors
In the south-west of England, the rich grass is ideal for feeding dairy cows.
Cows
In the south-east of England and the lowlands of Scotland, grain, potatoes and sugar beet are grown.
Sugar beet crop
In the east of England (East Anglia), wheat, barley and vegetables grow in enormous fields.
wheat crop
Types of Farming:
* arable (growing of crops and cereals)
The UK is the fourth largest producer of cereal and oilseed crops in the EU (after France, Germany and Poland) accounting for about 8% of total EU production.
* pastoral (rearing and production of animals including pigs, chickens, hill farming sheep, beef and dairy cattle)
* mixed farming (combination of arable and pastoral)
* horticulture (production of flowers, fruit, vegetables or ornamental plants)
* market gardening (production of fruit and vegetables)
* viticulture (grapes).
Principal crops:
* wheat, (the most widely grown arable crop in the UK)
* barley,
* oats,
* potatoes,
* sugar beet, (The UK is the fifth largest producer of sugar beet)
* vegetables,
* oil seed rape,
* fruits.
Livestock products:
* poultry,
* sheep,
* cattle,
* milk,
* meat,
* eggs,
* wool.
back to the topLearn about England and the other countries in Britain
from the children who live in ther
Follow this link to report typos, bad links or general mistakes
Events and special days in the UK
British Life
Pooh down the River Thames
Flat Stanley
British History
Click here to see us on Twitter
About Us | Search | Site Map | Feedback | User Information | Contact Us
© Copyright - please read
All the materials on these pages are free for educational use only. You may not redistribute, sell or place the content of this page on any other website or blog without written permission from Mandy Barrow, Woodlands Junior School. If you have any questions about the use of these materials please email us.
© Copyright 2010 Mandy Barrow - Terms & Conditions
Woodlands Junior School, Hunt Road Tonbridge Kent TN10 4BB UK
Kamis, 06 Januari 2011
The Ethiopian News Agency
EPRDF Enables to Increase Agricultural Production: Executive Committee
Addis Ababa, November 7, 2010 (Addis Ababa) - The Executive Committee of EPRDF said it has enabled to register an agricultural production growth.
In a meeting it held here on Saturday, the Executive Committee had found that the development of infrastructure and prevalence of good governance were the major factors for in the increase in agricultural production.
It said role model farmers should be taken an exemplary to replicate agricultural productivity growth in all parts of the country.
The Executive Committee stressed the need that providing necessary training and support to the farming community would help increase agricultural productivity.
Further expanding irrigation development schemes and development of river basins are among the many things that help increase agricultural production growth.
It also underlined the need to fill in the gap of agricultural products' transaction.
It also discussed the importance of expanding micro finance institutions so that farmers have access to loan and saving.
The Executive Committee also deliberated on the significance of developing the culture of saving among the farming community.
The prevalence of multi-party system which enables to develop democracy in the country has enabled to achieve development across the nation.
This has also helped bring about national consensus among the people in the country, the Executive Committee said.
It urged the public at large to work hard for the realization of renaissance of Ethiopia.
T-10:01-10:21 AM
E-11 minutes
---END---
Headlines
EPRDF Enables to Increase Agricultural Production: Executive Committee
Ethiopia Secures 52 Million US Dollars from Gold Export in First Quarter
(c) The Ethiopian News Agency
Addis Ababa, November 7, 2010 (Addis Ababa) - The Executive Committee of EPRDF said it has enabled to register an agricultural production growth.
In a meeting it held here on Saturday, the Executive Committee had found that the development of infrastructure and prevalence of good governance were the major factors for in the increase in agricultural production.
It said role model farmers should be taken an exemplary to replicate agricultural productivity growth in all parts of the country.
The Executive Committee stressed the need that providing necessary training and support to the farming community would help increase agricultural productivity.
Further expanding irrigation development schemes and development of river basins are among the many things that help increase agricultural production growth.
It also underlined the need to fill in the gap of agricultural products' transaction.
It also discussed the importance of expanding micro finance institutions so that farmers have access to loan and saving.
The Executive Committee also deliberated on the significance of developing the culture of saving among the farming community.
The prevalence of multi-party system which enables to develop democracy in the country has enabled to achieve development across the nation.
This has also helped bring about national consensus among the people in the country, the Executive Committee said.
It urged the public at large to work hard for the realization of renaissance of Ethiopia.
T-10:01-10:21 AM
E-11 minutes
---END---
Headlines
EPRDF Enables to Increase Agricultural Production: Executive Committee
Ethiopia Secures 52 Million US Dollars from Gold Export in First Quarter
(c) The Ethiopian News Agency
to increase agricultural productivity
Return your view to full page Focus your view on this article
Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society
doi:10.1016/j.agecon.2004.09.006 | How to Cite or Link Using DOI
Copyright © 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. Cited By in Scopus (13)
Permissions & Reprints
Strategies to increase agricultural productivity and reduce land degradation: evidence from Uganda
Alert
This article is not included in your organization's subscription. However, you may be able to access this article under your organization's agreement with Elsevier.
John Pendera, Corresponding Author Contact Information, E-mail The Corresponding Author, Ephraim Nkonyaa, Pamela Jaggera, Dick Sserunkuumab and Henry Ssalic
aInternational Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI), 2033 K St., NW, Washington, DC 20006-1002, USA
bMakerere University, Kampala, Uganda
cNational Agricultural Research Organization, Kampala, Uganda
Available online 17 November 2004.
Abstract
This paper estimates a structural econometric model of household decisions regarding income strategies, participation in programs and organisations, crop choices, land management, and labour use, and their implications for agricultural production and soil erosion; based upon a survey of over 450 households and their farm plots in Uganda. Many factors have context-specific impacts and involve trade-offs between increasing production and reducing land degradation. Government agricultural extension and training programs contribute to higher value of crop production in the lowlands, but to soil erosion in the highlands. By contrast, non-governmental organization (NGO) programs focusing on agriculture and environment help to reduce erosion, but have less favourable impacts on production in the lowlands. Education increases household incomes, but also reduces crop production in the lowlands. Poverty has mixed impacts on agricultural production, depending on the nature of poverty: smaller farms obtain higher crop production per hectare, while households with fewer livestock have lower crop production. Population pressure contributes to agricultural intensification, but also to erosion in the densely populated highlands. Several household income strategies contribute to increased value of crop production, without significant impacts on soil erosion. We find little evidence of impact of access to markets, roads and credit, land tenure or title on agricultural intensification and crop production and land degradation. In general, the results imply that the strategies to increase agricultural production and reduce land degradation must be location-specific, and that there are few ‘win-win’ opportunities to simultaneously increase production and reduce land degradation.
Keywords: Agricultural productivity; Land degradation; Agricultural development strategies; Sustainable land management, Uganda
JEL classification: Q01; Q24; Q12; Q18
Article Outline
1.
Introduction
2.
Methodology
2.1. Empirical model
2.2. Value of crop production
2.3. Crop choice, labour use and land management
2.4. Income strategies and participation in programs and organisations
2.5. Soil erosion
2.6. Dependent variables
2.7. Explanatory variables
2.8. Hypotheses
2.9. Data
2.10. Analysis
3.
Results
3.1. Value of production
3.2. Erosion
3.3. Potential impacts of selected interventions
4.
Conclusions and implications
References
Table 1. Determinants of output value and predicted erosion View table in article
*, **, *** mean reported coefficient is statistically significant at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Coefficients of agro-climatic zones, altitude, plot quality variables (slope, position on slope, soil depth, texture, colour and perceived fertility) and ethnic groups in reduced form not reported due to space limitations. Full regression results available upon request.
b Variables that were jointly statistically insignificant in the OLS and full version of the IV regressions were excluded from the reported restricted IV regressions. Hausman tests failed to reject OLS model for value of crop production (P = 1.000) and erosion (P = 0.432).
Table 2. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomesa View table in article
*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.
Table 3. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomes, lowlands vs. highlands (total effects)a View table in article
*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. R means that the coefficient is of the same sign and statistically significant in the reduced form regression. Since participation in agricultural training, extension and organisations were excluded from the reduced form regressions, the robustness of the total effects for these variables could not be shown.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, participation in programs and organisations, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.
Corresponding Author Contact InformationCorresponding author. Tel.: +1 202 862 5645; fax: +1 703 426 0416.
Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society
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Copyright © 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. SciVerse® is a registered trademark of Elsevier Properties S.A., used under license. ScienceDirect® is a registered trademark of Elsevier B.V.
Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society
doi:10.1016/j.agecon.2004.09.006 | How to Cite or Link Using DOI
Copyright © 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. Cited By in Scopus (13)
Permissions & Reprints
Strategies to increase agricultural productivity and reduce land degradation: evidence from Uganda
Alert
This article is not included in your organization's subscription. However, you may be able to access this article under your organization's agreement with Elsevier.
John Pendera, Corresponding Author Contact Information, E-mail The Corresponding Author, Ephraim Nkonyaa, Pamela Jaggera, Dick Sserunkuumab and Henry Ssalic
aInternational Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI), 2033 K St., NW, Washington, DC 20006-1002, USA
bMakerere University, Kampala, Uganda
cNational Agricultural Research Organization, Kampala, Uganda
Available online 17 November 2004.
Abstract
This paper estimates a structural econometric model of household decisions regarding income strategies, participation in programs and organisations, crop choices, land management, and labour use, and their implications for agricultural production and soil erosion; based upon a survey of over 450 households and their farm plots in Uganda. Many factors have context-specific impacts and involve trade-offs between increasing production and reducing land degradation. Government agricultural extension and training programs contribute to higher value of crop production in the lowlands, but to soil erosion in the highlands. By contrast, non-governmental organization (NGO) programs focusing on agriculture and environment help to reduce erosion, but have less favourable impacts on production in the lowlands. Education increases household incomes, but also reduces crop production in the lowlands. Poverty has mixed impacts on agricultural production, depending on the nature of poverty: smaller farms obtain higher crop production per hectare, while households with fewer livestock have lower crop production. Population pressure contributes to agricultural intensification, but also to erosion in the densely populated highlands. Several household income strategies contribute to increased value of crop production, without significant impacts on soil erosion. We find little evidence of impact of access to markets, roads and credit, land tenure or title on agricultural intensification and crop production and land degradation. In general, the results imply that the strategies to increase agricultural production and reduce land degradation must be location-specific, and that there are few ‘win-win’ opportunities to simultaneously increase production and reduce land degradation.
Keywords: Agricultural productivity; Land degradation; Agricultural development strategies; Sustainable land management, Uganda
JEL classification: Q01; Q24; Q12; Q18
Article Outline
1.
Introduction
2.
Methodology
2.1. Empirical model
2.2. Value of crop production
2.3. Crop choice, labour use and land management
2.4. Income strategies and participation in programs and organisations
2.5. Soil erosion
2.6. Dependent variables
2.7. Explanatory variables
2.8. Hypotheses
2.9. Data
2.10. Analysis
3.
Results
3.1. Value of production
3.2. Erosion
3.3. Potential impacts of selected interventions
4.
Conclusions and implications
References
Table 1. Determinants of output value and predicted erosion View table in article
*, **, *** mean reported coefficient is statistically significant at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Coefficients of agro-climatic zones, altitude, plot quality variables (slope, position on slope, soil depth, texture, colour and perceived fertility) and ethnic groups in reduced form not reported due to space limitations. Full regression results available upon request.
b Variables that were jointly statistically insignificant in the OLS and full version of the IV regressions were excluded from the reported restricted IV regressions. Hausman tests failed to reject OLS model for value of crop production (P = 1.000) and erosion (P = 0.432).
Table 2. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomesa View table in article
*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.
Table 3. Simulated impacts of changes in selected variables on outcomes, lowlands vs. highlands (total effects)a View table in article
*, **, *** mean direct effect is based on a coefficient that is statistically significant in the OLS regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. Statistical significance of indirect effects not computed. +, ++, +++ and −, −−, −−− mean direct effect in is of the sign shown and statistically significant in the IV regression at 10%, 5% or 1% level, respectively. R means that the coefficient is of the same sign and statistically significant in the reduced form regression. Since participation in agricultural training, extension and organisations were excluded from the reduced form regressions, the robustness of the total effects for these variables could not be shown.
a Simulation results for direct effects based upon predictions from OLS model regressions reported in Table 1. Results of regressions predicting choices of income sources, participation in programs and organisations, crops, land management practices and labour use were used to predict indirect impacts.
Corresponding Author Contact InformationCorresponding author. Tel.: +1 202 862 5645; fax: +1 703 426 0416.
Agricultural Economics
Volume 31, Issues 2-3, December 2004, Pages 181-195
Current Issues in the Economics of Agriculture, Food, and Resources: Reshaping Agriculture's Contributions to Society
* Home
* Browse
* Search
* My settings
* My alerts
* Help
Elsevier homepage (opens in a new window)
* About ScienceDirect
*
o What is ScienceDirect
o Content details
o Set up
o How to use
o Subscriptions
o Developers
* Contact and Support
*
o Contact and Support
* About Elsevier
*
o About Elsevier
o About SciVerse
o About SciVal
o Terms and Conditions
o Privacy policy
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Minggu, 26 Desember 2010
http://www.dummies.com
Making Compost - Black Gold for Your Organic Garden
The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.
Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.
A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.
Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.
Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.
Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.
Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:
1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.
The soil under it should be well drained.
2. Make a bin.
Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.
3. Add brown materials.
Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.
4. Add green materials.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.
5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.
A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.
6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.
Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.
7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.
If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.
Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:
* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:
• Hay, straw, pine needles
• Leaves
• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)
• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human
• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Weeds
• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)
* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:
• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.
• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass
• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants
• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds
• Dog, cat, or pig feces.
* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).
Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials
Material and C/N Ratio
Table scraps, 15:1
Grass clippings, 19:1
Old manure, 20:1
Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1
Fruit waste, 25:1
Corn stalks, 60:1
Old leaves, 80:1
Straw, 80:1
Paper, 170:1
Sawdust, 500:1
Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes
To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.
* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.
* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
Keeping your pile happy
A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:
1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.
Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.
2. Turn the pile when it cools down.
Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.
3. Let it cook again.
How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.
4. When it's cool, turn it again.
You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.
Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:
* The pile was too wet or dry.
* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.
* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.
* The pile was too small.
You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.
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Comments (12)
1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.
Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000
Making Compost - Black Gold for Your Organic Garden
The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.
Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.
A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.
Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.
Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.
Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.
Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:
1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.
The soil under it should be well drained.
2. Make a bin.
Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.
3. Add brown materials.
Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.
4. Add green materials.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.
5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.
A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.
6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.
Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.
7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.
If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.
Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:
* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:
• Hay, straw, pine needles
• Leaves
• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)
• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human
• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Weeds
• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)
* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:
• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.
• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass
• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants
• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds
• Dog, cat, or pig feces.
* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).
Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials
Material and C/N Ratio
Table scraps, 15:1
Grass clippings, 19:1
Old manure, 20:1
Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1
Fruit waste, 25:1
Corn stalks, 60:1
Old leaves, 80:1
Straw, 80:1
Paper, 170:1
Sawdust, 500:1
Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes
To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.
* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.
* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
Keeping your pile happy
A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:
1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.
Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.
2. Turn the pile when it cools down.
Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.
3. Let it cook again.
How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.
4. When it's cool, turn it again.
You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.
Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:
* The pile was too wet or dry.
* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.
* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.
* The pile was too small.
You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.
* Comments(12) | Add Yours
* Print
* Share This
* Gardening Glossary
Related
* Container Gardening: How to Plant Vegetables in Pots
* How to Start Seeds Indoors
* Planting Seeds on Your Allotment
* Planting Seeds in Small Containers
* How to Divide Perennials
* Dividing Perennials in Your Garden
* How to Care for Bulbs
* A Look under the Layers of Lasagna Gardening
* Growing Seasons by Hardiness Zone
* Top Tips for Small Sustainable Gardens
Sponsored Links
Modern composters
Composters for organic waste. We are looking for distributors.
www.joraform.com
Solvita Compost Kit
self-test your compost for maturity - no need to wait for lab results.
www.solvita.com
Comments (12)
1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.
Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000
The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.
Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.
A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.
Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.
Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.
Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.
Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:
1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.
The soil under it should be well drained.
2. Make a bin.
Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.
3. Add brown materials.
Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.
4. Add green materials.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.
5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.
A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.
6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.
Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.
7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.
If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.
Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:
* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:
• Hay, straw, pine needles
• Leaves
• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)
• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human
• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Weeds
• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)
* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:
• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.
• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass
• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants
• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds
• Dog, cat, or pig feces.
* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).
Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials
Material and C/N Ratio
Table scraps, 15:1
Grass clippings, 19:1
Old manure, 20:1
Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1
Fruit waste, 25:1
Corn stalks, 60:1
Old leaves, 80:1
Straw, 80:1
Paper, 170:1
Sawdust, 500:1
Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes
To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.
* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.
* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
Keeping your pile happy
A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:
1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.
Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.
2. Turn the pile when it cools down.
Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.
3. Let it cook again.
How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.
4. When it's cool, turn it again.
You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.
Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:
* The pile was too wet or dry.
* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.
* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.
* The pile was too small.
You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.
* Comments(12) | Add Yours
* Share This
* Gardening Glossary
Related
* Container Gardening: How to Plant Vegetables in Pots
* How to Start Seeds Indoors
* Planting Seeds on Your Allotment
* Planting Seeds in Small Containers
* How to Divide Perennials
* Dividing Perennials in Your Garden
* How to Care for Bulbs
* A Look under the Layers of Lasagna Gardening
* Growing Seasons by Hardiness Zone
* Top Tips for Small Sustainable Gardens
Sponsored Links
Modern composters
Composters for organic waste. We are looking for distributors.
www.joraform.com
Solvita Compost Kit
self-test your compost for maturity - no need to wait for lab results.
www.solvita.com
Comments (12)
1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.
Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000
Making Compost - Black Gold for Your Organic Garden
The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost.
Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process.
A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy.
Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire.
Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile.
Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself.
Here's what you need to know to build a good compost pile:
1. Choose a shady location, out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile.
The soil under it should be well drained.
2. Make a bin.
Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide.
3. Add brown materials.
Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container.
4. Add green materials.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer.
5. Repeat these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin.
A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.
6. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly.
Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition.
7. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep rain away and preserve moisture.
If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up.
Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following is a look at what to add to a pile, what not to add, and in what ratios to add it:
* What to add to the pile or composter: What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities:
• Hay, straw, pine needles
• Leaves
• Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)
• Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human
• Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Weeds
• Shredded black and white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.)
* What not to add: Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin:
• Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile.
• Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass
• Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants
• Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds
• Dog, cat, or pig feces.
* Let's talk ratios: In composting corners, you often hear about the C/N ratio or carbon to nitrogen ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen).
Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Table 1: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios of Various Materials
Material and C/N Ratio
Table scraps, 15:1
Grass clippings, 19:1
Old manure, 20:1
Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1
Fruit waste, 25:1
Corn stalks, 60:1
Old leaves, 80:1
Straw, 80:1
Paper, 170:1
Sawdust, 500:1
Wood, 700:1
Quick and easy compost recipes
To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section, "Keeping your pile happy." Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have finished compost within one to two months.
* Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves.
* Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
* Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves.
Keeping your pile happy
A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure:
1. Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it.
Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first.
2. Turn the pile when it cools down.
Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile.
3. Let it cook again.
How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels.
4. When it's cool, turn it again.
You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling.
Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred:
* The pile was too wet or dry.
* You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials.
* The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly.
* The pile was too small.
You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.
Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.
Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.
Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.
Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.
Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.
Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.
Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers
Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.
Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.
Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.
Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.
Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.
Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.
Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.
Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.
Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.
Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.
Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.
Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.
Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.
Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.
Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.
Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.
Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.
Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.
* Comments(12) | Add Yours
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* Gardening Glossary
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* How to Start Seeds Indoors
* Planting Seeds on Your Allotment
* Planting Seeds in Small Containers
* How to Divide Perennials
* Dividing Perennials in Your Garden
* How to Care for Bulbs
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* Growing Seasons by Hardiness Zone
* Top Tips for Small Sustainable Gardens
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Comments (12)
1.
Posted by Ian Bagshaw MARCH 02, 2009 | 02:08PM
CAn you tell me why we have a lot of white fly and no worms in our compost bin? Does it have to be in a shady area or if it is in the sun can we do any thing to help it?
(Report comment)
2.
Posted by chris MARCH 28, 2009 | 04:25AM
I was wondering if I could use sawdust on my feilds as organic matter.I am a farmer and am looking at ways to put back nutrients in my soils. I have a large amount of saw dust avalible to me and was wondering if i was to spread it thinly over the soil about 5 cm thick if it would help in any way. It would be ploughed and turned into the soil at the end of the crop. I wonder if you could please give me some info as to how this may or may not benifit my soils many thanx
(Report comment)
3.
Posted by Sheryl APRIL 02, 2009 | 01:39AM
Now that was some good reading. I just gotten into gardening and last fall I made a indoor worm bin and it worked. I was so proud and happy. This newsletter is great and thanks.
(Report comment)
4.
Posted by Fran JUNE 04, 2009 | 10:05PM
Is dust etc from the vacuum bag, with inorganic materials removed, good for compost?
(Report comment)
5.
Posted by barbara JUNE 16, 2009 | 02:34PM
I would like to answer Chris (comment 2) on his query. No, it is not a good idea as firstly, it takes a very long time to break down and become one with the soil and secondly, it becomes a mat on top of the soil after the first few wettings thereof. Where it is beneficial, is to improve the condition of clay soil, but rough sand works better. However, anything organic is better than nothing and even sawdust will eventually benefit the land.
(Report comment)
6.
Posted by Sue JUNE 25, 2009 | 10:06AM
Thank you for the proper way to composte. This in depth article alerted me to the fact that there needs to be a correct ratio of matter to successfully composte properly. This is a great way to reduce household waste for the good of the environment and help your plants and flower gardens as well.
(Report comment)
7.
Posted by Pat Mercedes JULY 01, 2009 | 05:16PM
This is a great article and comes to us just in time for planning purposes. I am interested in finding people who may have done gardening and composting on a larger scale (community gardens and the like) as I would like to tap into their experience with same. Please get in touch with me at patmercedes@sbcyahoo.net
(Report comment)
8.
Posted by Patrick SEPTEMBER 03, 2009 | 10:26AM
Is it OK to compost the activaded carbon from a fish aquarium filter?
(Report comment)
9.
Posted by Shal OCTOBER 04, 2009 | 10:35PM
To CHIRS's question... I don't think it is good idea to add 5cm thick layer. When saw dust composts, it takes away nitrogen from soil, and your plants will starve of nitrogen. You probably can sprinkle little when plantation is there. Best is let it compost and use it or add just little in fall to improve the soil property (to retain moister, drain better), but this is slow process and takes many iteration. Anyway, farming is require patient. Good Luck.
(Report comment)
10.
Posted by Denise OCTOBER 08, 2009 | 07:55PM
I am concerned about the banana slugs I am finding in the compost bin. Should I put slug bait around the outside of the bin? Or, are they beneficial to the whole composting process?
(Report comment)
11.
Posted by steve JULY 08, 2010 | 10:34PM
i am a scout leadr, and this year we will be composting. what would be the top 5 brown and top 5 green materials that would be easy for 5 - 7 year olds to access?
(Report comment)
12.
Posted by Joan AUGUST 27, 2010 | 00:07AM
To the scout leader: I've done both bin composting and vermi-composting with children. Since I live in Colorado and we have cold temps much of the year, so we have to accelerate the process whenever possible. I save my food in a blender in the fridge, add whatever liquid I have, and when full of food, top it off with water and blend then pour into the bin. I usually get a combination of food scraps but the blending really speeds up the decomposition and adds moisture. I save my shredded leaves for the carbon layers. I like using a handful of rabbit food (alfalfa is nitrogen) on the layers which really heats up when properly moistened. Starbucks will give you bags of coffee grounds (nitrogen) which is nice too. I can use the blender also for the vermi-compost if it's not too watery. Whole bananas add a lot of potassium to the finished product. I like using shredded and moistened brown paper grocery bags for the bedding and use moistened egg cartons on top to keep in moisture. I"m not sure about Top 5. For children it's probably going to be whatever mom has in the fridge or they collect with you at the store from the produce manager. If you don't like the blender container in your fridge, you can throw everything into a ziplock in the freezer. The freezing process expands the cells which also aids in the decomposition factor.
Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-compost-black-gold-for-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz19HxtT000
Minggu, 05 Desember 2010
Agricultural Engineering
Department of Agricultural Engineering UGM Facilitate Farmers to Develop SRI
Submitted by marwati on Tue, 11/02/2010 - 07:08.
in
* News report
Agricultural system by means of the System of Rice Intensification (SRI) has been known able to increase agricultural production. In addition, through such methods, environmental sustainability can be well maintained, especially with economical use of water. Seeing the opportunity of the development of SRI farming method, the Department of Agricultural Engineering, Faculty of Agricultural Technology UGM, facilitates farmers in Yogyakarta to develop it.
Lecturer, Prof. Dr. Ir. Sigit Supadmo, M. Eng., said there were more than 300 farmers in Yogyakarta already assisted to develop this system. They also focus on researches on the excellence of the system. "The research also involves the faculty and students," Sigit said at the sidelines of the announcement of SRI’s contest winners and SRI’s collective harvest event at the Jering VI sub-village site, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman, Thursday (28/10). This activity is a joint work among UGM- SRI Farmers Forum-Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region.
Sigit explained that the SRI system has many advantages compared with the usual system. The advantages, among others are; the economical use of water, economical use of seed, and more production.
He described the utilization of rice seeds at a relatively young age of about 10 days, thus saving the amount of the seeds. "There are about 42 types of rice varieties being developed for this SRI system. So far the results are pretty good, "said Sigit. Some of the names of rice varieties grown in that location are Maros, Batas Gadis, Pandanwangi, Code, Sarinah, Somali, etc.
Similarly, a farmer from Karangmojo, Sunaryo, said that the SRI system has many advantages. He gave an overview of the economical use of the rice seeds. With SRI, the seeds used are only about 0.5 kg or 1 kg while with non-SRI system, the seeds could reach up to 10 kg.
Meanwhile, the production also increased dramatically with the SRI system. By utilizing only 7.5 kg of seeds, they can harvest up to 1 ton of dry-milled rice. Conversely, with non-SRI system, an amount of 15 kg of seeds will result around 7-8 quintal only. "The benefits of this system is obvious, many farmers in my region in Gunung Kidul have developed it by now since our income automatically increases," said Sunaryo who is also the contest winner of the Gunung Kidul regency.
Previously, Chief Executive of SRI Farmers Forum of Yogyakarta, Nuryanto, said the contest is held annually. The contest in 2010 was followed by 220 participants, consisting of 63 farmers from Bantul, 30 farmers from Gunung Kidul, 74 farmers from Kulon Progo, 35 farmers from West Sleman, and 18 farmers from the East Sleman.
The winners are decided in each district. The grand winner at the provincial level is also determined, this time it is Sugeng from Temon, Kulon Progo regency. "The production could even reach 12.88 tons of rice," said Nuryanto.
Head of Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region, Ministry of Public Works, Ir. Bambang Harono, Dipl.HE, said the SRI farming system in addition to having the advantages and economical in terms of the use of seeds and water, it is able to reduce social conflict among the farmers in terms of water distribution.
SRI system quite helps the government program in terms of food security. It is also very suitable with the weather and climate in Indonesia. The method that is originated from Madagascar and found about 20 years ago in its development has come under the international spotlight. This is proved by the presence of foreign tourists group from the United States, Nepal, Italy, South Africa, Holland, China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, and several other countries to the village of Jering VI, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman. They are about to witness the organic farming land using the SRI methods. "Along with the Youth Pledge Day on October 28, the young generation shall be able to continue to develop SRI method because it is quite nature-friendly and helps the government in food security programs," said Bambang.
Similar News
* Witnessed by 200 Farmers, Faculty of Agricultural Technology Harvested SRI Rice
* 63rd Anniversary of UGM Faculty of Agriculture : Sustainable Agricultural System Answers Global Challenges
* Yogyakarta and Faculty of Agricultural Technology UGM to Host the 6th Asian Regional Conference of ICID
* 60 Farmers Develop Integrated Agriculture Under Transmission Power Lines
* DERU UGM Starts to Deliver Animal Feed
News Categories
* News-report
* Inauguration-Professor
* Seminar-Workshop
* Student-Community-Service-Program
* Achievement
copyright Universitas Gadjah Mada 2009
Submitted by marwati on Tue, 11/02/2010 - 07:08.
in
* News report
Agricultural system by means of the System of Rice Intensification (SRI) has been known able to increase agricultural production. In addition, through such methods, environmental sustainability can be well maintained, especially with economical use of water. Seeing the opportunity of the development of SRI farming method, the Department of Agricultural Engineering, Faculty of Agricultural Technology UGM, facilitates farmers in Yogyakarta to develop it.
Lecturer, Prof. Dr. Ir. Sigit Supadmo, M. Eng., said there were more than 300 farmers in Yogyakarta already assisted to develop this system. They also focus on researches on the excellence of the system. "The research also involves the faculty and students," Sigit said at the sidelines of the announcement of SRI’s contest winners and SRI’s collective harvest event at the Jering VI sub-village site, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman, Thursday (28/10). This activity is a joint work among UGM- SRI Farmers Forum-Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region.
Sigit explained that the SRI system has many advantages compared with the usual system. The advantages, among others are; the economical use of water, economical use of seed, and more production.
He described the utilization of rice seeds at a relatively young age of about 10 days, thus saving the amount of the seeds. "There are about 42 types of rice varieties being developed for this SRI system. So far the results are pretty good, "said Sigit. Some of the names of rice varieties grown in that location are Maros, Batas Gadis, Pandanwangi, Code, Sarinah, Somali, etc.
Similarly, a farmer from Karangmojo, Sunaryo, said that the SRI system has many advantages. He gave an overview of the economical use of the rice seeds. With SRI, the seeds used are only about 0.5 kg or 1 kg while with non-SRI system, the seeds could reach up to 10 kg.
Meanwhile, the production also increased dramatically with the SRI system. By utilizing only 7.5 kg of seeds, they can harvest up to 1 ton of dry-milled rice. Conversely, with non-SRI system, an amount of 15 kg of seeds will result around 7-8 quintal only. "The benefits of this system is obvious, many farmers in my region in Gunung Kidul have developed it by now since our income automatically increases," said Sunaryo who is also the contest winner of the Gunung Kidul regency.
Previously, Chief Executive of SRI Farmers Forum of Yogyakarta, Nuryanto, said the contest is held annually. The contest in 2010 was followed by 220 participants, consisting of 63 farmers from Bantul, 30 farmers from Gunung Kidul, 74 farmers from Kulon Progo, 35 farmers from West Sleman, and 18 farmers from the East Sleman.
The winners are decided in each district. The grand winner at the provincial level is also determined, this time it is Sugeng from Temon, Kulon Progo regency. "The production could even reach 12.88 tons of rice," said Nuryanto.
Head of Central Association of Opak-Serayu River Region, Ministry of Public Works, Ir. Bambang Harono, Dipl.HE, said the SRI farming system in addition to having the advantages and economical in terms of the use of seeds and water, it is able to reduce social conflict among the farmers in terms of water distribution.
SRI system quite helps the government program in terms of food security. It is also very suitable with the weather and climate in Indonesia. The method that is originated from Madagascar and found about 20 years ago in its development has come under the international spotlight. This is proved by the presence of foreign tourists group from the United States, Nepal, Italy, South Africa, Holland, China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, and several other countries to the village of Jering VI, Sidorejo, Godean, Sleman. They are about to witness the organic farming land using the SRI methods. "Along with the Youth Pledge Day on October 28, the young generation shall be able to continue to develop SRI method because it is quite nature-friendly and helps the government in food security programs," said Bambang.
Similar News
* Witnessed by 200 Farmers, Faculty of Agricultural Technology Harvested SRI Rice
* 63rd Anniversary of UGM Faculty of Agriculture : Sustainable Agricultural System Answers Global Challenges
* Yogyakarta and Faculty of Agricultural Technology UGM to Host the 6th Asian Regional Conference of ICID
* 60 Farmers Develop Integrated Agriculture Under Transmission Power Lines
* DERU UGM Starts to Deliver Animal Feed
News Categories
* News-report
* Inauguration-Professor
* Seminar-Workshop
* Student-Community-Service-Program
* Achievement
copyright Universitas Gadjah Mada 2009
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